Capturing the ethereal beauty of the Aurora Australis requires more than just being in the right place at the right time—it demands technical knowledge, proper equipment, and patience. Australian aurora photographers who’ve mastered the art of shooting the Southern Lights share their hard-won expertise for both beginners and advanced shooters.
While the Aurora Australis graces southern Australian skies less frequently than its northern counterpart appears in Arctic regions, recent strong geomagnetic activity has provided unprecedented opportunities for Australians to witness and photograph this celestial wonder.
Understanding What You’re Photographing
Before diving into camera settings, understanding aurora behavior helps capture better images.
Visual vs Camera Perception
Human eyes and cameras perceive auroras differently:
What Eyes See: Typically faint green or gray curtains, occasionally brighter displays with visible colors. Our night vision relies on rod cells that don’t perceive color well in low light.
What Cameras Capture: Vibrant greens, pinks, purples, and reds invisible to the naked eye. Long exposures accumulate light, revealing colors and structures imperceptible to human vision.
This difference explains why photos often look more spectacular than real-time observation—though during intense displays, vivid colors become visible even to eyes.
Aurora Dynamics
Auroras are constantly moving and changing:
Curtain Movement: Undulating sheets that appear to dance across the sky Pulsations: Brightness variations occurring over seconds to minutes Coronas: Rare displays where aurora appears overhead, radiating from a central point Arcs: Stable glows along the horizon, common during lower-intensity events
Understanding these behaviors helps anticipate the best moments for photography.
Essential Equipment
Camera Bodies
Full-Frame Sensors: Best low-light performance with superior noise characteristics at high ISOs. Recommended for serious aurora photography.
APS-C Sensors: Acceptable performance, though noise increases at higher ISOs. Still capable of excellent results with proper technique.
Modern Mirrorless: Advanced models from Sony, Canon, Nikon, and others offer exceptional low-light capabilities with features like in-body stabilization (though you’ll still need a tripod).
Entry-Level DSLRs: Even older entry-level cameras can capture auroras, though you’ll need to work within their ISO limitations.
Smartphones: Modern flagships with dedicated night modes can capture auroras, though dedicated cameras produce superior results.
Lenses
Wide-Angle (14-24mm): Ideal for capturing sweeping aurora displays and landscape context. The wider the better for dramatic compositions.
Fast Apertures (f/2.8 or wider): Essential for gathering maximum light. Prime lenses at f/1.4-f/1.8 excel for aurora photography.
Popular Choices:
- 14mm f/2.8 (ultra-wide, dramatic perspectives)
- 20mm f/1.8 (excellent balance of width and speed)
- 24mm f/1.4 (versatile, widely available)
Avoid slow zoom lenses (f/3.5-f/5.6) as they require much longer exposures or higher ISOs.
Support Equipment
Sturdy Tripod: Absolutely essential. Carbon fiber models withstand wind better and won’t freeze your hands in cold conditions.
Remote Release: Cable release or wireless remote prevents camera shake. Alternatively, use the camera’s timer function (2-10 seconds).
Extra Batteries: Cold temperatures drain batteries rapidly. Keep spares in warm pockets close to your body.
Head Torch with Red Light: Preserves night vision while adjusting equipment. White light takes 20+ minutes for eyes to readjust.
Lens Hood: Prevents dew formation on the front element, common in humid conditions.
Microfiber Cloths: For clearing condensation from lenses.
Warm Clothing: Aurora photography means extended periods standing still in cold conditions. Layer appropriately.
Camera Settings for Success
The Exposure Triangle for Auroras
Aperture: f/2.8 or wider (f/1.4-f/2.0 ideal)
- Wider apertures gather more light
- Slight vignetting at widest apertures is acceptable
- Some lenses perform better stopped down slightly (f/2.0 instead of f/1.4)
ISO: 1600-6400 (depends on camera and aurora intensity)
- Start at ISO 1600 for bright displays
- Increase to 3200-6400 for fainter auroras
- Test your camera’s noise characteristics beforehand
- Modern cameras handle high ISOs remarkably well
Shutter Speed: 5-25 seconds (depends on aurora movement)
- Longer exposures capture fainter details but blur rapid movements
- Shorter exposures freeze dynamic displays
- Experiment to find the sweet spot for current conditions
The Rule of 500 (Star Trailing)
To avoid star trailing: 500 ÷ focal length = maximum exposure time
Examples:
- 14mm lens: 500 ÷ 14 = 35 seconds maximum
- 20mm lens: 500 ÷ 20 = 25 seconds maximum
- 24mm lens: 500 ÷ 24 = 21 seconds maximum
For APS-C sensors, multiply focal length by 1.5 before calculating.
However, during active aurora displays, star trailing matters less as the aurora itself moves continuously.
Starting Point Settings
Bright Aurora Display:
- Aperture: f/2.8
- ISO: 1600
- Shutter: 10 seconds
Moderate Display:
- Aperture: f/2.0
- ISO: 3200
- Shutter: 15 seconds
Faint Display:
- Aperture: f/1.8
- ISO: 4000-6400
- Shutter: 20 seconds
Review your first shots and adjust accordingly. Histograms are more reliable than LCD screens for judging exposure.
Focus Technique
Autofocus rarely works in darkness. Manual focus is essential:
- Switch lens to manual focus (MF)
- Point at bright star or distant light
- Use live view and zoom to 10x magnification
- Adjust focus until point light is sharpest
- Lock focus (some lenses have infinity locks)
- Avoid touching focus ring during shooting
Alternative: Use hyperfocal distance focusing for maximum depth of field, ensuring both foreground and sky are sharp.
White Balance
Daylight/Sunny (5500K): Produces natural-looking colors
Auto White Balance: Works but can shift between shots, complicating post-processing
Kelvin 3400-4000K: Enhances green tones
Shoot RAW: Allows white balance adjustment without quality loss
Most aurora photographers prefer daylight white balance for accurate color representation, adjusting in post-processing if needed.
Composition Strategies
Foreground Elements
Empty sky aurora shots, while beautiful, benefit tremendously from interesting foregrounds:
Natural Features:
- Trees (especially dead or stark specimens)
- Rock formations
- Mountains
- Water bodies (lakes, ocean, rivers)
- Coastlines
Human-Made Structures:
- Lighthouses
- Jetties and piers
- Historic buildings
- Bridges
- Rural structures (sheds, windmills)
Reflections: Water reflections double the impact of aurora displays. Calm lakes and seas create stunning mirror effects.
Rule of Thirds
Position the horizon on the lower third line, giving the aurora-filled sky dominant space in the frame. Alternatively, place striking foreground elements on intersection points for visual balance.
Leading Lines
Use roads, fences, shorelines, or natural features to lead the viewer’s eye toward the aurora.
Framing
Frame the aurora through natural elements like tree branches or rock formations for added depth and interest.
Panoramas
Aurora displays often span more than wide-angle lenses capture. Consider shooting panoramas:
- Overlap each frame by 30-40%
- Keep exposure settings consistent
- Work quickly to minimize aurora movement between frames
- Stitch in post-processing using specialized software
Advanced Techniques
Timelapse Photography
Capturing aurora movement through timelapse reveals their dynamic nature:
Interval: 5-10 seconds between shots (allows 15-20 second exposures) Duration: Minimum 30 minutes (180+ frames for 6-second video at 30fps) Equipment: Intervalometer or built-in camera timelapse function Settings: Manual mode with fixed exposure settings Post-Processing: Assemble in Lightroom, Photoshop, or dedicated timelapse software
Foreground Illumination
During very dark nights, foreground elements may be too dark:
Light Painting: Use head torch or flashlight to selectively illuminate foreground during exposure. Keep light moving to avoid hot spots.
Flash: Off-camera flash can illuminate nearby subjects. Test power levels beforehand.
Multiple Exposures: Shoot one exposure for aurora, another illuminating foreground with longer exposure or higher ISO, blend in post-processing.
Stacking for Noise Reduction
For faint auroras requiring high ISOs:
- Shoot multiple identical exposures (5-10 frames)
- Stack in Photoshop or specialized software
- Averaging reduces noise while preserving detail
- Effective for static displays; movement creates ghosting
Incorporating Human Elements
Include people in aurora shots for scale and emotion:
- Position people as silhouettes against aurora
- Have subjects illuminate themselves with phone screens or lights
- Keep people still during exposure (movement creates ghosting)
- Consider red lights to preserve night vision ambiance
Location Scouting
Finding Dark Skies
Light pollution is aurora photography’s enemy:
Use Light Pollution Maps: Apps like Dark Sky Finder or Light Pollution Map identify dark locations
Bortle Scale: Aim for Class 3 or darker for best results
Distance from Cities: Generally, 50+ kilometers from major urban areas
Elevation: Higher altitude reduces atmospheric interference
Australian Aurora Hotspots
Tasmania:
- Bruny Island
- Cockle Creek
- Mount Wellington
- Freycinet National Park
- Cradle Mountain
Victoria:
- Phillip Island
- Wilsons Promontory
- Apollo Bay
- Great Ocean Road coastal locations
- Grampians
South Australia:
- Fleurieu Peninsula
- Kangaroo Island
- Eyre Peninsula coastal areas
- Yorke Peninsula
Southern NSW:
- Far South Coast beaches
- Merimbula
- Tathra
- Narooma
Western Australia:
- Albany region
- Margaret River
- Cape Leeuwin
Safety Considerations
Coastal Locations: Be aware of tides and wave conditions. Never turn your back on the ocean.
Remote Areas: Carry emergency supplies, first aid, charged phone, let others know your location.
Wildlife: Be aware of local wildlife, particularly snakes in warmer months (though less active at night).
Weather: Check forecasts. Avoid exposed locations during storms or high winds.
Access: Some locations require daylight reconnaissance. Navigating unfamiliar terrain in darkness is dangerous.
Post-Processing
RAW Processing Basics
Import: Lightroom, Capture One, or other RAW processors
Exposure Adjustment: Fine-tune overall brightness
Highlights/Shadows: Recover detail in bright aurora cores and dark foregrounds
Whites/Blacks: Set white and black points for optimal contrast
Clarity/Texture: Enhance aurora structure (use moderately)
Vibrance/Saturation: Boost color (avoid over-saturation)
Noise Reduction: Apply luminance noise reduction for high ISO shots
Sharpening: Enhance detail (avoid over-sharpening)
Advanced Processing
Graduated Filters: Balance exposure between bright aurora and dark foreground
Radial Filters: Selectively enhance aurora brightness or structure
Color Grading: Fine-tune specific color ranges (particularly greens and pinks)
Dehaze: Can enhance aurora contrast but use carefully to avoid artificial appearance
Luminosity Masks: Advanced technique for selectively processing bright and dark areas
Sky Replacement: Generally discouraged unless disclosing composite nature. Aurora photography ethics favor authentic captures.
Processing Philosophy
The debate between natural vs enhanced processing is ongoing:
Purist Approach: Minimal processing, showing aurora as close to visual appearance
Enhanced Reality: Boosting colors and contrast to match camera sensor capabilities
Creative Interpretation: Artistic processing for dramatic effect
Most photographers aim for enhanced reality—representing what the camera captured while improving technical aspects like noise and contrast. The key is avoiding unnatural artifacts or completely fabricating elements.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Technical Errors
Too Long Exposure: Creates washed-out, detail-less aurora blobs
Too Short Exposure: Results in dark, underexposed images
Too High ISO: Excessive noise overwhelms detail
Wrong Focus: Soft focus ruins otherwise perfect shots
Camera Shake: Caused by touching camera, wind, or unstable tripod
Forgetting to Switch Off Auto Settings: Aperture priority, auto ISO, or auto white balance can produce inconsistent results
Composition Issues
Empty Sky: Lacks context and interest
Boring Foreground: Detracts rather than enhances
Cluttered Frame: Too many competing elements
Horizon Placement: Dead center horizon rarely works well
Missed Opportunities: Focusing on equipment while the best display passes
Field Mistakes
Insufficient Battery Charge: Cold drains batteries quickly
Condensation: Moving from warm car to cold environment causes lens fogging
Forgotten Memory Cards: Always check before leaving home
Inadequate Warm Clothing: Cold ruins concentration and enjoyment
Light Pollution: Using bright white lights ruins night vision for you and others
Learning Resources
Online Communities
Facebook Groups:
- Aurora Australis Tasmania
- Southern Lights Australia
- Aurora Chasers Australia
Instagram: Follow hashtags #AuroraAustralis #SouthernLights #AuroraTasmania
Forums: Cloudy Nights, Photography forums with astrophotography sections
Workshops and Tours
Several operators offer aurora photography workshops in Tasmania and southern Victoria. These provide hands-on instruction in dark-sky locations with expert guidance.
Practice Opportunities
Don’t wait for strong aurora displays to practice:
Star Photography: Master long-exposure night sky photography Milky Way: Similar techniques to aurora photography City Lights: Practice foreground composition and focus techniques Moon Photography: Different exposures but useful focus practice
The Ethics of Aurora Photography
Light Discipline
When aurora viewing with others:
- Use red lights only
- Never shine lights toward other photographers
- Dim phone screens
- Shield lights when necessary
Location Sharing
Consider impact before posting precise locations:
- Some landowners prefer privacy
- Fragile environments can be damaged by crowds
- Balance sharing beauty with protecting special places
Authenticity
- Disclose composites or sky replacements
- Avoid extreme manipulation that misrepresents reality
- Respect the natural phenomenon you’re documenting
Final Thoughts
Aurora photography combines technical skill, artistic vision, and dedication to cold nights under dark skies. Initial attempts may frustrate, but each aurora teaches lessons that improve subsequent shoots.
The cameras and techniques matter, but the real magic lies in witnessing one of nature’s most spectacular phenomena. Sometimes the best moment is putting down the camera and simply watching the sky dance.
However, when conditions align—proper equipment, favorable weather, strong aurora, and prepared photographer—the resulting images preserve fleeting cosmic moments, sharing the wonder of the Southern Lights with those unable to witness them firsthand.
As solar activity continues through Solar Cycle 25, Australian photographers have unprecedented opportunities to capture the Aurora Australis. The combination of accessible locations, growing awareness through apps and forecasts, and improving camera technology means more people than ever can pursue this uniquely rewarding form of photography.
Track aurora activity and receive alerts for viewing opportunities with MyWeatherMate’s comprehensive space weather forecasts and aurora notifications.
Related Articles:
- Post-Processing Masterclass: Bringing Out the Best in Night Sky Photos
- Understanding Space Weather: Solar Storms and Earth’s Magnetic Field
- Complete Guide to Stargazing in Australia
- Camera Gear Guide: Building Your Astrophotography Kit
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